Tire problems shouldn’t deflate your day

Last time we talked about tires: why they are prone to punctures and other problems and the type of tools you should store in your 4WD vehicle ( See prior post: No Need to get Spun Out over your Tires ).

Now I’d like to discuss the more common tire-related problems you’re likely to face while off-road and how to fix them.

Lose a bead – Occurs quite often while making a hard turn on a soft surface. Because the tire is aired down, there isn’t enough internal pressure to keep the sidewalls from collapsing inwards.

You usually can reset the bead without removing the wheel from the vehicle. Jack up your vehicle and wipe away any dirt from the inside of the rim. Attach a compressor and begin airing up. Reach around the back of the tire and grab rubber. (You may need a buddy to help with this.) Pull the tire toward you so it can start holding air. Keep pulling and holding until the bead resets.

You don’t need a big blast of air to do this. A little ARB compressor, pumping out about 1.27 CFM, is sufficient. Be patient. This will take time, but eventually you will hear the bead pop into place. (Make sure no one’s fingers are in the way!) Lower the vehicle and put away your tools.

Puncture – A standard puncture is actually rather easy to repair. Everything you need is in the tire repair kit. (If you haven’t purchased one yet, I suggest you do so now. A good one is sold by UDS in Gardena, CA - http://www.udshardware.com/ . It is a very complete kit in a soft sided bag that will fit places those hard plastic ones don’t. )

First, lubricate the hole with some white grease using the probe tool provided. This will allow the plug, which is very sticky, to enter freely. Feed a plug through the eye of the plugging tool until it is about halfway through. Insert the eye of the tool into the hole. The plug will be folded over as it’s being fed into the hole, so you’re left with two ends sticking outside the tire. Leave about ¾” of the ends visible. Hold the collar against the tire as you pull out the plugging tool to keep the plug in place.

Trim off the excess, and apply some sand or dirt to the stubs. The stickiness attracts twigs, rocks and other debris which could pull the plug out.

One plug will work for punctures caused by nails, cactus needles and other thin items. If the hole is much larger, use two or more plugs.

Although the plugs are designed for punctures in the tread portion of the tire, they can be used to close a gash in the sidewall in a pinch. DO NOT attempt to drive on hard pavement with a plugged gash, however. The plug may not hold, and you could face a nasty blowout.

Break a bead – Amazing as it might sound, there are times when you need to break a bead. For example, you may have to replace the valve stem or clean a rim to stop a bead leak. Bead leaks are rather common while driving along ruts. The rim slides down the edge of a rut and jams dirt and pebbles into the bead.

Take the tire off the vehicle and lay it flat on the ground next to another vehicle. Pull the valve stem core so you’re not fighting the tire pressure. Set the foot of a Hi-lift jack on the tire just short of the rim. Begin jacking against the other vehicle. The weight of the vehicle pushing against the tire will cause the bead to pop.

Be patient with this process. Some tires need to be nearly flattened before the bead breaks. You can usually get by with jacking on just one side of the tire, though you may need to step on the other side to help it along.

Do not jack your disabled vehicle as part to this process. You will lift it slightly off the jack stands in place, causing a dangerous situation.

Another option is a pair of tyre plyers. Popular in Australia, hence the odd spelling, they allow you to break a bead without removing the wheel. I don’t carry one but when others had them they work fine.

Replace a valve stem – Remove the tire and break the front bead enough so you can reach the back of the valve stem. Cut the old one off. Don’t worry about the chunk that you drop in the rim; that won’t hurt anything.

Apply a dab of white grease on either the valve stem or hole in the rim, and feed the stem through. Use the multi-function valve core tool to pull the valve through. It’ll snap into place when seated properly. Do not use pliers for this, as you could ruin the valve stem. One end of the multi-function valve tool is threaded so it will grab the valve stem nicely.

You’ll note that in order to replace the valve stem you need to know how to both break and restore a tire bead. That’s why I discuss those skills first.

They, along with the others, are not difficult to learn or use. And they come in really handy when you face a flat out in the middle of nowhere. Study and practice these skills at home so your next off-road adventure isn’t deflated by a flat tire.
____________________________________


I hope to see you on the trails!

Tom Severin, President
Badlands Off Road Adventures, Inc
4-Wheel Drive School
310-374-8047
http://www.4x4training.com/
Make it Fun. Make it Safe.

###

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You are welcome to use this article anytime, just be sure to include the following author/copyright information:

Tom Severin, 4x4 Coach, teaches 4WD owners how to use their vehicles safely and confidently over difficult terrain in adverse conditions. Visit www.4x4training.com to develop or improve your driving skill.

Copyright 2008, Badlands Off-Road Adventures, Inc.
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No Need to get Spun Out over your Tires

Tires are some of the most important yet under-appreciated parts on a vehicle. Without them, we literally could not get around.

Despite improvements in technology over the years, some 4WD owners still are very cautious when it comes to driving off road. An obvious sign is tires that aren’t aired down sufficiently. Apparently the drivers were trying to avoid risks related to under-inflated tires.

Sure, problems like a broken bead can occur. But those can be fixed rather easily. All you need are the proper skills and a handful of tools. With those under your belt and in your vehicle, you can handle most situations involving tires. It’s a lot simpler than you think to gain the peace of mind you’d like to have while driving off road.

Some people wonder why we don’t just throw on the spare every time. Think about it. By putting on your spare, you’re basically using your safety net. You should try to fix the main tire first. Unless it’s damaged severely, you should be able to use it again. And you’ll still have the spare as a back up.

If you immediately throw on the spare, you’re left with no other options. You have to hope that the spare will carry through the remainder of the course, or you head for home.

There are times, however, when you need to use the spare. If you’re ever in a dangerous situation that requires a quick exit, or you’re simply unable to make the necessary repairs, put the spare on and drive to a better location. Safety always comes first.

Tires take a pounding on the trails

Let’s take a look at tires and see why they are so prone to problems. First, they take a lot of abuse. They shoulder the weight of our vehicles, and are forced to carry us over some really nasty terrain. (Even pavement takes its toll on tires.)

On top of that, we air down the tires before hitting the trails. The weight of the vehicle causes the sidewalls to bulge making them susceptible to cuts and gashes. At the same time, with reduced air pressure the tire is unable to hold the bead as well, so we see a fair number of busted beads under these conditions.

The softer tire also increases the chance that a rim will get banged up on rocks. In addition, a valve stem can be damaged or torn out while driving through tight spots.

The types of problems you are likely to encounter fall into four general categories. To drive confidently off-road you should know how to:

1. Fix a popped bead
2. Plug a puncture
3. Break a bead
4. Replace a valve stem

The tools you’ll need include:

1. Compressor
2. Hi-lift® jack
3. A rag to clean out the rim
4. (optional) Steel brush on a long handle
5. Plug kit like UDS Hardware's Kit, Safety Seal® or ARB’s Speedy Seal
6. A couple extra valve stems
7. Multi-function valve core tool
8. BFH

Next time we’ll discuss each of the four important tasks in greater detail. The skills and tools needed to handle those situations provide you peace of mind so you can more fully enjoy your next off-road adventure.

I hope to see you on the trails!

Tom Severin, President
Badlands Off Road Adventures, Inc
4-Wheel Drive School
310-374-8047
http://www.4x4training.com/
Make it Fun. Make it Safe.

###


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Copyright 2008, Badlands Off-Road Adventures, Inc.

Pack A Fire Extinguisher So You Don’t Get Burned

Four-wheelers are good about packing their vehicles with tools, tow straps, winch, food, water - you name it; they include it.

One piece of equipment that often gets overlooked, however, happens to be one of the more critical items: a fire extinguisher. Remember that a fire could occur inside or outside your vehicle. Ever wonder what you’d do if your campfire or stove got out of hand? Or if your engine compartment started smoking? You may never experience a fire–and I hope you don’t–but if you do, you’ll be thankful you packed an extinguisher. Many smaller fires can be snuffed out quickly and safely.

Extinguishers come in many sizes. I’ve found the 3 lb. size adequate for vehicles. Buy two high-quality refillable models. You’ll spend a few extra dollars, but it’ll be worth it. Think of a fire extinguisher as an insurance policy. You don’t want to cut corners there.

Mount one on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. The other should be mounted in a visible spot on or near the back gate. The key here is that it is accessible. Too many people mount or place their extinguishers under boxes or other stuff in the back. It won’t do you any good if you can’t grab it quickly.

Another good spot, especially on smaller vehicles, is on the roll bar. Regardless of where you mount the extinguishers, make sure to review their locations and use with your passengers before departing.

Fire extinguishers come in a variety of types depending on their use. We’ll review only the more common ones here. (For more information, go to www.tvfr.com/dept/fm/extinguishers/index.html.) I’d like to thank my friends at Outdoor Adventure USA (www.oausa.net) for all their helpful comments.

Dry chemical – The most popular form for personal use, these are given a letter rating depending on the type of fire they are designed for. Make sure your extinguisher is rated ABC. That way it can be used on all types of fires, including fuel and electrical.

Advantages: They are easy to operate and will work on all types of fires, if you select the proper model.

Disadvantages: Once discharged, even for a short burst, they must be recharged. The pressure drops and you’ve lost a certain amount of chemical.

The nozzle can clog over time, rendering it useless (especially if you’ve discharged some chemical). Inspect the extinguisher regularly for obvious signs of clogging, but also take it in to an appropriate facility for inspection at least once a year. Make sure to keep the tag on the bottle so you know when it was last inspected.

Finally, the dry chemical is rather corrosive, and may harm sensitive electronic equipment. Make sure you thoroughly clean anything that has been hit with the chemical.

Halon – A very effective agent, but production has been banned due to its effect on the ozone layer. With only limited supplies left, halon extinguishers are becoming harder to find and more expensive.

Advantage: Said to be great on suppressing fires. Because it’s a gas, it leaves no residue.

Disadvantages: Expensive and difficult to find, and it disperses easily in windy conditions. Best used in enclosed spaces.

Halotron® - Marketed as a safer alternative to halon, this gas is said to be very effective in outdoor applications.

Advantage: Leaves no residue.

Disadvantages: Apparently geared more toward industrial applications, Halotron extinguishers aren’t as readily available. May be more expensive, too.

CO2 – A colorless, odorless gas, CO2 works by smothering the fire. Literally taking away the oxygen.

Advantages: Fairly effective in enclosed spaces and doesn’t leave a residue.

Disadvantage: Be careful when using, as the CO2 can affect you as well.

Final note: If you have mag wheels, DO NOT spray water on them should they start burning. You’ll cause an explosion. Use a Class D extinguisher if you have one, or let the fire department handle it. You can find more information on Class D extinguishers on the Web page mentioned above or through a quick Web search.

As you can see, an ABC-rated dry chemical extinguisher is probably your best bet. But what’s most important is that have extinguishers aboard. Inspect your vehicle now and install an extinguisher if you don’t already have one.


I hope to see you on the trails!

Tom Severin, President
Badlands Off Road Adventures, Inc
4-Wheel Drive School
310-374-8047
http://www.4x4training.com/
Make it Fun. Make it Safe.
###

FREE off-road information
Get valuable advice and the latest tips for safe wheeling,
hot new gear reviews, inside hints on upcoming events, and more!
To receive your own copy of my exciting twice-monthly newsletter,
click here:
www.4x4training.com/contacts.html
Note: We never sell or rent your name and email address!


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Copyright 2008, Badlands Off-Road Adventures, Inc.